TALES FROM THE TRAIL (AND SOMETIMES THE ROAD TOO)

Monday, September 3, 2018

Another One for the Summer (& in the Afternoon to Boot!)

Saturday morning (9/1), I slept in (as I do lately – I still have not recovered from my 17 days off from work). I believe that it was about 12:30 when I took off in my truck for Aliso/Woods Canyon.  Being that the weather was damn hot, there were plenty of parking spaces on the street outside of the ranger station. This meant that I did not need to pay for parking, and as I cannot afford yet to even repair my truck, that came as a welcome (despite the very small amount our county parks require for parking – it all adds up!). As I prepped outside my truck, a woman  sitting low in a car parked next to me hollered out to a passer-byer, “Is there a river in that park?” No, the passer-byer didn’t see a river. Hmmm.  A river? Oh Boy. that was it on the subject, the passer-byer didn’t mention the creeks (which I did mention to the two ladies in the car who were smoking hashish out of a glass pipe).

So, Aliso/Wood Canyons has two year round creeks running through the park. One creek is in Aliso Canyon and the other in Wood Canyon. The two creeks meet it seems at perpendicular angles. Wood Creek dumps into Aliso Creek, which runs all the way to the Pacific Ocean rat Aliso Beach in the city of Laguna Beach. In all the years that I have been visiting these canyons, I have never seen either of these creeks dry (though low they can go!). And though they can flow quite heavily, I would never call them rivers.

Aliso Creek Trail:IMG_3996

Like I have already mentioned, it was dang hot out there in Aliso Viejo on the first day of September.  Even so, there were your usual amount of warriors out trekking across the trails. One group that I saw off and on, was a group of 3 or so dads and ten or so little guys (probably about 10 years old) riding their way up Wood Canyon. I also got to check in with some of the burned area. There’s new growth already in some areas. The fire fortunately did not ravish Wood Canyon (but I have not seen Dripping Cave or Coyote Run trails yet because they are closed).

I didn’t see any of the large animals (like coyotes or deer), but I saw plenty of rabbits, road runners and lizards. And on the topic of lizards, I saw several horned lizards, which are a new finding for me in these canyons. Then toward the end of The Big Loop at Aliso/Woods Canyons, I came up on a baby gopher snake. It was a beautiful little creature, which I’ve pictured further down below.

Wood Canyon regrowth:IMG_4001Some more Wood Canyon:IMG_4007IMG_4012

Anyway! The first 4.5 miles were delightful. They were hot, but much of Wood Canyon provides good shade. The 4.5 mile marks the end of Wood Canyon. After marching up Cholla Trail, I took the rolling hills of West Ridge to Top of the World in Laguna Beach. I do not recall the time that I arrived at Alta Laguna Park, but I do recall that the weather was beginning to change. The sun still shined brightly, but there was a cool onshore breeze coming in. What bliss! The onshore breeze is the most wonderful thing about living on the coast. So, that made the remainder of my hike just utterly pleasant (not to mention that fact that I had very few inclines to deal with after the half-way point.)

The weather changed at the 7 mile mark which is Top of the World, or rather Alta Laguna Park in Laguna Beach. The breeze got a littler cooler and each time lasted a little longer. And so, I trekked through the Laguna Beach Top of the World neighborhood to enter the park again over in Aliso Canyon. On the way, I passed a pasture of goats surrounded by a make-shift electrified fence. I fought against an urge to touch the fence to see just how much the jolt would be. On meadows, I met a gopher snake, and also stopped in more than one place to listen to the wind blowing through the trees.

It was almost like a different day when I arrived by at the truck. It was like a cool autumn and not a hot summer day like when I started.

12 miles, 1,319’ feet elevation gain

West Ridge:IMG_4019

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Goats near Meadows Trail:IMG_4036IMG_4055IMG_4056IMG_4058

Wind Blowing through the trees on Meadows:IMG_4059IMG_4060

Sunday, September 2, 2018

Bommer Ridge

I don’t teach on Fridays (for the entire fall semester!). Not that I don’t like my profession (I love it). I just get worn out, and am looking forward to the three day weekends (when I don’t teach on Saturdays, which is approximately every other week, plus none on holiday weeks, and you can be assured that there are plenty of holiday weeks to make my schedule ideal).

Yesterday though (Friday, 8/31/18) I had a monthly staff meeting in the morning. I went dressed for a hike (a pair of shorts that I picked up from the ground next to my bed, a black tank top, and trail running shoes) And I’m sorry, I couldn't help but apologize for my attire. I did however, drape a poncho-like shawl over my shoulders to help masquerade my grungy trail clothing.

As I sat through that two hour meeting, I could not help but think about the last time I visited El Moro Ridge in Crystal Cove. I was struck by the number of ridges beyond mine that I did not know (they all pointed out toward the Pacific Ocean). I figured that Bommer Ridge had to be one of those, as I know from past trail runs, that Bommer turns and runs perpendicular to the Pacific Ocean. But what were those other ridges? Why don’t I know every single trail in this park? I thought to myself: this must be fixed.

Friday afternoon after my meeting, I decided to drive through Laguna Beach, which is touristy and lovely (ocean views the whole way), and I got pulled over. I knew immediately when the squad car pulled up behind me that I was going to be delayed. I knew because I do not have current tags on my truck. The policeman (who was respectful and straightforward with a tinge of kindness) knew from his computer check in the squad car that I had paid my registration, I just do not have tags. And I do not have tags because my truck did not pass the smog certification. Until I can afford to get my truck serviced, I will not receive the tags. This of course is at the top of my list (as in very soon, but other things come first, like my son’s EEG, which our health insurance covered none of), but alas, I was guilty, and fully expected a ticket. The policeman asked all sorts of questions, and said that I was very believable (which is easy to do since I just answered the questions truthfully). Turned out, he didn't ticket me, and wished me luck in getting the truck up to state qualifications. Ya. I’m gonna need that luck.

So back to business, hoping that I didn’t get pulled over again . . . Friday’s plan -- take Bommer Ridge to its end for an estimated 10 mile out-and-back. As it goes nowadays when I make it out to the widerness, my feet did not hit the dirt until about 1:30 pm. It was damn hot. Naturally, I decided from the onset that I would hike to keep the effects of the heat well managed. I’m much too old to put myself through the crap I used to put myself through. I guess now, I am tamer.

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So, Bommer Ridge was pretty much empty. I saw an occasional mountain biker, a runner or two, a couple of hikers -- at most a half dozen other people out there on my route, which meant that I was pretty much alone. And alone, it is so very lovely at times. In Aliso/Woods (my usual coastal trails) I can go for thirty minutes, an hour at max without seeing another person on the trails. But in Laguna Wilderness, I can go for two hours, even more, without seeing anyone (especially on a week day, and a warm one at that).

So, how does one go about marching along the same trail for several miles, only to turn around and march back to close it up? Well, it’s very much like getting behind the wheel of your car and just driving for the sake of driving. Just moving forward. Whether I’m hitting the road running, driving, or hiking I pretty much get the same thing out of it -- big open road (or trail) up above that I get to conquer. On Bommer Ridge, I could see trails laid out miles in front of me -- long hot exposed trails surrounded by a carpet of coastal chaparral. I cannot adequately relay the satisfaction that comes with seeing the long road ahead of you, and then thirty minutes, an hour or more later, you are there (by your own accord!). That mindless movement forward to a set destination oddly thrills me. 

The beauty was immense, even with all of that brown shrubbery. The blue of the Pacific Ocean perfectly frames that summertime brown we have in Southern California. The browns also seem to match the mood of the hot temperature. It’s what I’ve grown up with. I’m used to it, andIMG_3981 can see the beauty in it if I pay attention. The best part of my hike on Bommer Ridge was when I turned off my ipod and listened to nature. Far from the road and other people, there was silence, which is never really silent. There’s actually a noise in silence, a low level calming noise, kind of like a soft hum. I make a point of it to take some time listening to the silence on most of my hikes and runs. On Bommer Ridge on this hot summer day, the silence was golden!

Bommer Ridge (plus a little of Laguna Bowl) total miles: 9.9’

Elevation gain: 1,142 (which is pretty good for rolling hills!)

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Friday, August 31, 2018

Much Needed Meditation

So, it was Sunday, I believe when I most recently hit the trails. Definitely a last minute decision. All morning I thought that I would go to the gym, but then suddenly changed my mind. And with that change of mind, I promptly drove up the coast, through Laguna Beach, and then headed up to Newport Coast where I parked my truck near Bommer Ridge.

IMG_3897My feet hit the dirt about 2:30pm. And though the weather was warm, it was not terribly so. It was comfortable enough to run, which I did for the first few miles -- of course those first few miles were mainly rolling hills in the downward fashion.

IMG_3905The route that I chose was mainly rolling hills with an overall decline for about 4.5 miles, where I landed myself on the sandy beaches called Crystal Cove. That of course meant that the climb-out was to begin. You can’t get much lower elevation than where my feet were planted at the time -- at the edge of the Pacific Ocean (which even after 53 years, I’m still in awe). It was a lovely picture -- lots of colorful umbrellas, glassy green waves pounding into the shore, with laughter and all around fun going on 180 degrees.

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IMG_3939I chose something completely different for what seemed like my usual loop at this park. I usually take Moro (or El Moro) Canyon back to Bommer Ridge. But that route has the steepest climbing toward the end of the loop. And I do not appreciate steep climbs toward the end of my route (though I do it to myself again and again!). What I decided on Sunday was this: climb up BFI (which is very close to the coast) and make my way to Moro Ridge. That way, my steepest climb would be at about the halfway point, instead of toward the end. This minor change took the agony out of what in the past has been a grueling 10+ mile loop. Steep inclines are completely bearable, and even enjoyable when I take them on with strong legs. Steep climbs are miserable when I am fatigued. Let me tell you . . . it makes all the difference in the world to take the big ascents on strong legs (big climbs on weak legs is for the birds!)

In short, this 10.5 mile loop provided much needed meditation. I didn’t think much about anything. Instead, I just moved about in The Now.

10.5 miles, 1,467’ elevation gain

Route: No-Name Ridge (called something else at the start in Laguna Wilderness, but I don’t recall) / No-Dogs / route to Pacific Ocean / El Moro Cyn / BFI / El Moro Ridge / Missing Link / Boomer Ridge.

8 26 18a

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Thursday, August 16, 2018

The Need to Wander

My summer vacation (17 days total, plus there were some weeks that I only taught 9 hours) is grinding to a halt. I am grinding to a halt. That’s what it feels like anyway, like I have little energy or incentive to do much of anything. That is why I keep a list of the top thirty or so things that I need to do. That way, in my lethargy, I will manage to get something done -- because of my neurotic need to cross things off a list.

So, why so lethargic and down? Well, first off, my diet has not been that great lately, with birthdays and other summer celebrations. When carbs were increased in my diet, my energy levels decreased, right on cue. But there have been other things too: the heat, the #HolyFire, some trouble for one of my brothers, and just overall worry about the near future. And I also recently attended my 35th high school reunion, which as is always the case with reunions, was bittersweet. Don’t get me wrong. I enjoyed the night, and it was great seeing so many people from long ago. But events like these are draining, mainly so because I begin to think about the past, and really, the past is not the ideal place to be. Even to spend a little time in the past, though the past is by no means horrible, is stressful. (I don’t want to remind myself what a stupid kid I was!).

Today started off as a particularly lazy day. After accompanying my oldest son this morning to bring his car in for repair, I lay on the living room couch for about 3 hours. I don’t think that I slept. I just closed my eyes and pondered what I would do for the remainder of my day. I found that I had absolutely no ambition to do anything whatsoever as my days off from work slipped away. Some time after noon, I grabbed my middle and youngest sons and dragged them off to buy new shoes. They also start school next week. And shoes meant that I could cross something off my list. But then I found myself at home again with absolutely no ambition to do a single thing. Though I did some reading, and also checked emails (answered a couple). Finally about 4 pm, wearing flip-flops, I took my dog for a walk around the neighborhood. I loved the fresh air. I loved moving one foot in front of the other. And that’s when it dawned on me what I really needed. I REALLY needed to wander. The heat and the mountains on fire have deterred me from wandering lately, and I’m guessing that is helping with my low ambition. Wandering is part of the medicine that keeps me even, or rather, balanced. Wandering is like a sifter – it sifts out much of the unnecessary burdens that I’m carrying on my shoulders.

I took off out my front door at about 5:00 pm and headed down PCH (Pacific Coast Highway). And then I wandered. I wandered for 7.25 miles all the while making my way into Doheny State Beach, Capistrano Beach, and the Dana Point Harbor. I didn’t get much elevation gain (about 450’) and the terrain was not at all rugged. But I caught glimpses of pelicans nose diving into the ocean for fish. I watched the waves crash down while others enjoyed the surf. I saw the destruction that the tide had done to the beach parking lots at the southern end of town. I looked at the faces of many people. I smiled or at least grinned or nodded my head when eye contact was made. A rabbit crossed my path, and at least three trains powered by. I saw squirrels and seagulls and reflections in the water. And best of all, I got my feet moving in that robotic manner that I find so comforting. One foot in front of the other.

So, as mopey that I am, or as anxious that I am, at least I got to do that. I got to wander.

The journey (though it was dull, it was wonderful, because dull is wonderful, aside from the fact that nothing is ever really dull):

PCH -- Pacific Coast HighwayIMG_3772IMG_3774IMG_3776IMG_3778IMG_3788IMG_3794S. Doheny Beach, torn up parking lot:IMG_3800IMG_3803Capo Beach:IMG_3808IMG_3809IMG_3815IMG_3818IMG_3826IMG_3835IMG_3838IMG_3840IMG_3842IMG_3843

Friday, August 10, 2018

#HolyFire

It is a little early for fire season in Southern California. I know. I was born in Southern California, and thus have 53 years experience. I have seen many seasons of fires and landslides. The destruction can be immense, it often brutally takes homes and lives. Gosh, there was one year back in the early 1990s when after a particularly tough fire season (hundreds of homes lost in Laguna Beach and elsewhere), we got it bad again when the rains came with landslides that destroyed more homes locally, and killed a few people as well. Usually, our peak of the fire season comes around October, occasionally September. Though, we can have fires any time of the year. And we do indeed.

Yearly fire stats for California (from Wikipedia for the last 18 years):

yearly stats

This past Monday, a fire broke out around my stomping grounds in Trabuco Canyon. The news media first called it the Holy Jim Canyon Fire, which was quickly renamed the Holy Fire (#HolyFire). Best I can tell however, Holy Jim Canyon was not the canyon that took the terrible destruction of the fire (yet). The fire seems to have originated somewhere near the Holy Jim Canyon parking lot. From there it travelled up Trabuco Canyon (not Holy Jim Canyon). The fire continued all the way up Trabuco to the Main Divide, and also travelled up West Horsethief (which I have written about many times in my blog).

Capture

This is the Trabuco Canyon Trail that I have experienced (Ah, lovely!):

trabuco canyon

trabuco trail

Gosh, the boundaries of the fire are enormous now. The fire has travelled all along the canyons in and around The Main Divide, nearly to Santiago Peak, and in the opposite direction to Los Pinos Trail (perhaps peak). From there it has also traveled down into Corona and Lake Elsinore (of course taking Indian Truck Trail along with it). Tonight, Friday night, the fire still burns. This morning, the number of acres neared 20,000, with I believe 5% contained.

As far as I can tell, the fire has not touched Holy Jim Trail. But the fire has burned Upper Holy Jim, which is a shrubbery forest of Manzanita (or was, rather). Of course, the social media world that I mainly identify with (trail runners, hikers, off-roaders by any means) are in a sad panic. We all know that we will never have it like it was – ever again – on those trails. It will grow back yes, but it will be different. And because I know that it will never be like it was again, I have an overwhelming feeling of gratitude. I’m very grateful that I got to spend countless miles and hours on the beautiful trails that #HolyFire has ravished. But I am also confident that those trails will turn beautiful again. It will be a different beautiful, and it will take some time. That is nature.

When a fire attacked Wood Canyon earlier this year, I couldn’t help but feel terribly sad. This time around, with fire attacking lands even more meaningful to me than the coastal hills, all I can feel is gratitude. Any sadness that I feel now is sadness for the 12 households that lost their rustic mountain cabins and possibly all of their belongings in Trabuco Canyon. At the same time that I feel this gratitude, I suppose as a defense mechanism, I’m glancing around the corner looking forward to the regrowth, the rebirth.

Fire is horrible, it is horrifying. Yet, it warms us, it keeps us alive, it is strikingly beautiful. Fire is a destruction that brings with it, a rebirth. I find that considerably odd. I should note that an arsonist, it appears may have started this fire. So terrible! I want to also state that this fire would have eventually happened -- a piece of glass in the dry vegetation, a spark from a car, lightning . . .  Fire is nature. It happens with our without us. It is sad that the state of California does not come up with a comprehensive plan to attack the natural disaster that occurs to us most often. I have big problem with how the “wild” lands are managed. But that’s for another post that I will most likely never post because land management seems to be a political topic, and that is not my intent.

Hopefully, the weather will turn, and the firefighters will gain the upper hand on #HolyFire.

From before (why I am grateful):

Prancing down West Horsethief in a skirt (Twin Peaks Ultra):taken-by-greg-h4Chomping my gum while marching up West Horsethief:chomping gumAfraid that I’m going to fall while running down a rocky West Horsethief:afraidHow I love thee:trailheadtop of westwest horsethiefanother w htAnd just a few more from West Horsethief:restingwhtht2