Trabuco Canyon Round Two

My left side, particularly my arm, ached for several days after my fall hiking to Holy Jim Falls on the 17th of this month. The left knee pain seemed minor, and the arm wasn’t getting worse. In fact, after a couple tough days with some wearing a sling, I felt that I was on the road to recovery. When I woke on the 21st, I noticed an extremely tight calf on my left side but overall felt that I could hike. So, about 6 am on the 21st I drove out to met my friend Kelly at the mouth of Trabuco Canyon. I felt confident I could put in some miles.

We took my truck in, headed for Holy Jim Falls once again. About a mile and half before the Holy Jim lot, I parked along the fern wall of Trabuco canyon and we slid down the slope to the creek in search of Falls Canyon. It has been many years since I’ve travelled to these falls (in fact, I believe that I’ve only been there twice). It’s not a canyon one often ventures alone (though I did once, and it was lovely with no incidence). Anyway, Falls Canyon trail had changed a great deal, with much of it re-routed across the creek and then blocked by downed trees. The hike was tough, so tough that we eventually turned around a short ways before the falls (I thought that I could hear it). No problem. The trail had really done its toll on me anyway. It was time to head back to the truck in search of easier falls up Holy Jim Canyon.

Falls Canyon:

Scaling the creek wall to get back was much easier than sliding down it earlier. However, I struggled some because of my left side. Back in the truck and driving over Trabuco Creek a couple more times, we arrived to a crowded Holy Jim lot. We saw no other people, just a lot of trucks. Kelly was as pleased as I was upon returning to Trabuco Canyon after so many years away. We have had many adventures in these canyons together. Before heading up Holy Jim, we hiked Trabuco to the closed portion about a half mile up. A few specific cabins that I remembered had disappeared, absolutely nothing remained of them. Other cabins left behind stone chimneys and walls as remnants. If I recall correctly 13 to 15 cabins burned to the ground during the #HolyFire. The story is terribly sad. Arson from a maniac who couldn’t control his anger.

Trabuco Canyon:

We spotted a couple of guys wearing bright orange shirts drive up into the lot as we headed up Holy Jim Trail. (Kelly thought they might be hunters). Despite a lot full of trucks, we didn’t see anyone the entire hike to the falls. This of course meant that several people were hiking, running, or biking past the falls turnoff, closed territory. Good for us because we had the falls to ourselves for quite a while. Eventually, three gentlemen with hiking poles came up, and we chatted a bit about the trails. The mood was festive with laughter and lots of chatter. As we prepared to leave, the two guys wearing orange shirts hiked up. Kelly told them that she thought they were hunters to which the leader exclaimed, “And we are, hunting souls for the Lord!”

Holy Jim Falls:

The ladybugs were again out in abundance. They absolutely amaze me, so much so that I snapped away with the camera and didn’t realize that my injuries were taking some hits from this short hike. What a beautiful trip this was and the company made it even more special. I think it wasn’t until that night back at home when I realized that I had put a lot of pressure on my injuries, especially my calf and knee. It seemed inconceivable that such a  wonderful, short hike would cause so much trouble. Time for ibuprofen, ice and rest.

About 5.5 miles in total.

Ladybugs!:

Welcome Back Holy Jim

It’s been nearly four years since I’ve driven up Trabuco Canyon, parked in the Holy Jim lot and ventured up that trail at the base of Old Saddleback. I love Trabuco Canyon; Holy Jim takes up much space in my heart. It has given me great things – beauty, revelation, and even triumph when we were in sync, but other times Holy Jim has delivered some heartache and even disgust, not to mention near heat stroke and nausea and other unmentionable physical problems. Aside from all this, what I remember most are the times Holy Jim gifted awe to the point of tears.

Anyway, I inadvertently learned that Holy Jim had partially re-opened from it’s closure after the #HolyFire (August 2018). How could this be? How did I not know Holy Jim had reopened? The news certainly put a kick in my step! And so, this past Friday, December 17, I finally returned. I expected the canyon to have a few travelers but as it turned out the canyon was practically empty. I enjoyed taking my sweet time driving the bumpy puddled road. About 3 miles in I was so overcome by the beauty, I abruptly pulled over to walk about mossy boulders overlooking the creek.

Teared up a bit at the mouth of Trabuco Cyn, like
anticipating meeting up with a long lost friend:
         I sure missed this drive:

The only other person in the Holy Jim lot when I arrived was a man who I had seen earlier on the drive. I noticed that he occasionally stopped to pick up trash alongside the road. He was sitting on the tailgate of his truck in the lot playing the harmonica when I pulled up. By the time I finally exited my truck two rangers had driven up as well. I chatted briefly with them (inquiring about further trail openings).  I was a little bummed to learn that Holy Jim from the Falls junction to the Main Divide would remain closed until August 2022. Now matter though because I was here now! I was grateful to hike Holy Jim even if just for a few miles.

Holy Jim Canyon was empty. When I say empty, I mean that I did not see a single other person as I made my way up the trail, nor did I see life at any of the cabins (except that final cabin that had the same red vehicle from years back parked up front). The lack of people made me reluctant about moving forward especially since I was headed toward a box canyon solo. Now normally, I’m not overly concerned about hiking or running alone, as long as I am well equipped and know the trails. But box canyons have always spooked me in general. (So, what was I thinking about doing this alone? I wasn’t thinking. I was too excited over the fact that Holy Jim was once again open.) But box canyons – yikes! I won’t even go into the horror the imagination can conjure up about being trapped in a box canyon. I decided that if I felt the same way at the turnoff, I would turn around and head back. It was that great to be back – it didn’t matter if I made it to my destination. It’s the journey that I get the most from, not necessarily the destination.

As I made my way along that quiet trail, I recognized much of Holy Jim from the past. For a few seconds I felt as if I walked through a ghost town – there were celebrations and defeats in this very same place (even before my time, for centuries!). There were the boulders I recognized, along with creek crossings and canopies. But much had changed as well. A good portion of the trail had been washed out. Standing in the midst of this washout, I felt disoriented not knowing just where I was. But then I noticed ties in the trees and quickly realized that the Forest Service had marked the way. Following the ties for a short while, I found myself back on recognizable terrain. Huge sections of trees were down and some particularly neatly placed boulders that previously framed the creek were now obliterated as if they had been kicked about the trail. Yes, things had changed. As they always do. But this was still Holy Jim, I could tell.

I felt comfortable upon reaching the turn off. The trail was pretty well visible and cleared and so I continued onward to the falls. Though it’s been almost four years since I’ve been on Holy Jim Trail, it’s been many more years since I’ve been to the falls. Holy Jim falls was an unnecessary detour while heading up to The Main Divide. But now. Now, 2021, I’m content hiking to the falls. It was lovely. I had it all to myself.

After spending some time at the falls, I headed back toward the trail and slipped on the wet rocks landing on my right hand. With my wrist a little achy, I felt that was ample warning. I told myself (out loud) Focus Lauren! You don’t want to break your arm . . . again. And then I chuckled. Not five minutes latter, while gripping onto a branch, my feet slipped beneath me and I slid down to the creek (but not into the creek). It was an awful fall affecting my entire left side (arm, hip,  leg). I had held onto that branch for dear life during the fall which resulted in a twist to my body. Twists like that do bad things (my last big twist resulted in torn tendons in my foot). So, there I was on the floor of the canyon once again. With use of only my right arm I got myself up and slowly made my way over the boulders and across the creek. Then while still a little dazed, the two rangers suddenly appeared before me. Well, what a happy sight! They helped guide me over a particular rough spot which was quite difficult with use of one arm. And I got to talking again with these guys, and turns out they know the guy who signs the permits for our races. In fact, he’s their boss and had sent them out that day to Holy Jim. I was amused by the coincidence. I told them to be sure to tell him I said Hi and reminded myself check-in. (The USFS has been very friendly toward foot races but COVID has put a hold on everything, as least in the Cleveland National Forest). Anyway, My spirits were up after that meeting and I felt better, confident that I could make it back to my truck without incident.

The remainder of the hike was in fact without incident. Except for this: On the way back I came upon these lovely creatures – Lady bugs!

About 5 miles hiked. I forgot to start my “Smart” watch.

Holy Jim!

Last Saturday I was up before dawn which has been a very rare thing over the past few years. The reason for such an early rise was to take on Holy Jim -- both lower and upper. I can’t say precisely how many years it has been since I have visited the trail named after Cussin’ Jim in the early 1900’s. I will just go with many -- it has been many years. I had been hearing of mountain lion sightings on the trail lately, so I was reluctant to travel it alone. But I have been aching to go. As it turns out, last Saturday, I was not alone. There was a mountain bike race in Trabuco Canyon, not to mention many other hikers once the morning aged. Still, I got in lots of quiet, tranquil time traveling one of my favorite trails.

I didn’t see any mountain lions on Saturday. I did see rabbits and lizards, and a whole lot of sweat. Yikes. The main part of Holy Jim wasn’t terribly tough, but taking on The Main Divide up to Upper Holy Jim was quite difficult. Of course, I didn’t run a single step. And thankfully, there was a cool breeze blowing. Great relief accompanied finally reaching Upper Holy Jim. But the difficulty did not end there, even though I was on a pretty good descent. Upper Holy Jim took a great deal of focus -- it was steep and quite technical with slippery sandy parts and lots of boulders and rocks to catch my feet on. Surrounded by Manzanita, I kept upright, occasionally stopping to take in breathtaking views. I also met a man on a motorbike toward the top of Upper Holy Jim. Shocking! I cannot imagine how he had made it over such crazy rough terrain. He looked defeated though and was parked in the shade.

In all it was a wonderful Saturday morning wandering about in Cussin’ Jim’s stomping grounds. His figs were ripe for the picking (if I liked figs), and his trails were just difficult enough to make my legs sore for the next few days. And then back at my truck, as I sat in the shade, a bird pooped in my eye. No kidding -- it splattered all over my sunglasses and sprayed into my right eye. And it stung. Still, that did not ruin the day. Love Holy Jim Trail. I sure would have liked to have met the man, a bee-keeper and apparently a fig farmer, who lived in these woods so many years ago.

Just past the trailhead, looking back:One of several creek crossings before the real climb begins:Figs!Time for switchbacks:

The Main Divide:

Views from Upper Holy Jim:

April 14, 2018; 11.67 miles, 3,438’ elevation gain.

Reversed

Saturday, March 19, I got out to Trabuco Canyon about 7AM to run my regular fourteen mile loop, but this time in reverse. Reversed the loop is: up Trabuco Trail, UP W. Horsethief (Mama Mia!), up and down The Main Divide, and then finally down Holy Jim (Joy, joy!)

Although I arrived fairly early to the Holy Jim lot, it was already full, except for one spot that I backed into next to the porta potty. There was a large group of hikers prepping for a hike to Santiago Peak via Holy Jim.  Seeing this made me a little glad that I had decided to reverse my loop with that many people going up (had to be more than twenty). Though I really do love people, I tend to shy away from them, as I prefer solitude.

So, I took off trotting up Trabuco Trail toward the trailhead when one by one, 4wd trucks began to pass me. One truck stopped, and the man inside rolled down his window and I thought I heard him ask, “You lift?” I almost answered, “Well, no, but I used to.” But I stopped myself short, thinking, “Now Lauren,  he’s NOT going to ask if you lift weights.” So, with my early morning diversified and bountiful vocabulary said, “Huh?”

Turns out he asked if I WANTED a lift. (Laughing). Then another driver asked if I wanted a ride. I chuckled and replied, “No thank-you, THIS is the goal,” and continued on running toward the Trabuco Trailhead where a dozen or so cars had already parked. It is very rare that even a single car is parked in this lot.

Well, a group of sixteen hikers were going up W. Horsethief this Saturday morning. And it turned out to be okay, in fact pleasurable going up that terrible, beautiful trail with sixteen others.  It’s actually comforting to suffer with others, even strangers, I think especially with strangers.

To my utter delight, salamanders roamed Trabuco Trail on the way to W. Horsethief. They were everywhere crawling about the moist trail. I can’t tell you how much I love salamanders– they’re adorable! When one some of the hikers caught me, we got to talking about the salamanders, and I told John, the hiker in front of me, that they reminded me of puppies. “That’s weird,” he said with a chuckle. I told him I was serious, that when I pick salamanders up and look at their little orange faces, their faces remind me of puppies. (I had already picked up three or four that morning). John said, “Have you ever thought of getting help for that Lauren?” (Big laughs here).

Reaching the top of W. Horsethief came as a huge relief. Really! That climb is super tough for me and I take it at an actual snail’s pace. I didn’t take The Main Divide much faster, but at least I was able to run the flats and down hills, and some of the up hills that were not so steep and long. The views and the trek were literally breathtaking – wait, maybe the breathtaking came from the march up toward Trabuco Peak! That’s a brutal trek also, especially as warm as it was on Saturday.

Off roaders passed here and there. Everyone waved.  Views of Riverside and San Bernardino counties were crystal clear. I could still see snow on The San Gabriels. On the OC. side, the ocean was covered with a sea of clouds.  

I actually ran up on three or four runners along The Main Divide, which is rare. At the Holy Jim trailhead, several hikers rested in the shade, beat from the climb up. One man wore a netted hat, though the gnats were far and few between. 

I felt great running down Holy Jim. What pure joy to run down that giant switchback! I came upon several hikers and a couple of cyclists. I even ran up on a runner who recognized me from this blog. His name is Brandon, and I really enjoyed stopping and talking local trails with him. He’s one of the few people I can talk Yaeger Mesa about. He even knew the story of the bell up there. He knows the guy who carried it up. Anyway, we must have chatted for ten minutes before I took off again, delighted in the cool breeze (as I had been growing quite warm).  Euphoria set in while finishing up Holy Jim. Gosh, euphoria is one of the great benefits of trail running – perhaps the best (and it does not always come along). 

The bottom of the canyon was absolutely packed with day hikers. Most everyone was smiling, but I noticed a few grimaces, as uphill hiking isn’t so enjoyable if you haven’t  done it before. I overheard a woman complain about the gnats. And I thought, Oh my, you have not seen nothing yet!  He, he – better learn to embrace the gnats.

Great time out there on this day.

14.21 miles, 3,519’ elevation gained.

Back to the Scene of the Crash

Saturday, March 12, I hit the trails to return to the scene of the accident that broke my arm. In fact, I ran the exact route: Holy Jim to The Main Divide, down West Horsethief to Trabuco (where the crash occurred) back into the Holy Jim lot. 

I am happy to report that I did not crash again. Sadly, I gingerly made my way across the rocks along Trabuco Trail so fearful was I that I would fall again. But overall, I spent a marvelous several hours in the mountains. I wore a jacket most of the time, and even gloves, and didn’t need even half the water that I packed. I was serenaded by the woodpeckers hammering against the tree trunks as I made my way up Holy Jim. I also met several hikers on the way up, and then spent many sweet lonely hours along The Main Divide. Come to think of it, I didn’t run across anyone on W. Horsethief or Trabuco either. Running down West Horsethief was a bit tricky, as the rocky terrain still strikes fear in me. A fall on West Horsethief would most likely fare far worse than one on Trabuco.

I love this route. It’s the toughest 14 miles I know. Probably the most beautiful in my parts too.  I think it’s apropos that it would be THIS route that would break something. It was bound to happen I suppose.

14.07 miles, 3,605’ of elevation gain