Trabuco Canyon Round Two

My left side, particularly my arm, ached for several days after my fall hiking to Holy Jim Falls on the 17th of this month. The left knee pain seemed minor, and the arm wasn’t getting worse. In fact, after a couple tough days with some wearing a sling, I felt that I was on the road to recovery. When I woke on the 21st, I noticed an extremely tight calf on my left side but overall felt that I could hike. So, about 6 am on the 21st I drove out to met my friend Kelly at the mouth of Trabuco Canyon. I felt confident I could put in some miles.

We took my truck in, headed for Holy Jim Falls once again. About a mile and half before the Holy Jim lot, I parked along the fern wall of Trabuco canyon and we slid down the slope to the creek in search of Falls Canyon. It has been many years since I’ve travelled to these falls (in fact, I believe that I’ve only been there twice). It’s not a canyon one often ventures alone (though I did once, and it was lovely with no incidence). Anyway, Falls Canyon trail had changed a great deal, with much of it re-routed across the creek and then blocked by downed trees. The hike was tough, so tough that we eventually turned around a short ways before the falls (I thought that I could hear it). No problem. The trail had really done its toll on me anyway. It was time to head back to the truck in search of easier falls up Holy Jim Canyon.

Falls Canyon:

Scaling the creek wall to get back was much easier than sliding down it earlier. However, I struggled some because of my left side. Back in the truck and driving over Trabuco Creek a couple more times, we arrived to a crowded Holy Jim lot. We saw no other people, just a lot of trucks. Kelly was as pleased as I was upon returning to Trabuco Canyon after so many years away. We have had many adventures in these canyons together. Before heading up Holy Jim, we hiked Trabuco to the closed portion about a half mile up. A few specific cabins that I remembered had disappeared, absolutely nothing remained of them. Other cabins left behind stone chimneys and walls as remnants. If I recall correctly 13 to 15 cabins burned to the ground during the #HolyFire. The story is terribly sad. Arson from a maniac who couldn’t control his anger.

Trabuco Canyon:

We spotted a couple of guys wearing bright orange shirts drive up into the lot as we headed up Holy Jim Trail. (Kelly thought they might be hunters). Despite a lot full of trucks, we didn’t see anyone the entire hike to the falls. This of course meant that several people were hiking, running, or biking past the falls turnoff, closed territory. Good for us because we had the falls to ourselves for quite a while. Eventually, three gentlemen with hiking poles came up, and we chatted a bit about the trails. The mood was festive with laughter and lots of chatter. As we prepared to leave, the two guys wearing orange shirts hiked up. Kelly told them that she thought they were hunters to which the leader exclaimed, “And we are, hunting souls for the Lord!”

Holy Jim Falls:

The ladybugs were again out in abundance. They absolutely amaze me, so much so that I snapped away with the camera and didn’t realize that my injuries were taking some hits from this short hike. What a beautiful trip this was and the company made it even more special. I think it wasn’t until that night back at home when I realized that I had put a lot of pressure on my injuries, especially my calf and knee. It seemed inconceivable that such a  wonderful, short hike would cause so much trouble. Time for ibuprofen, ice and rest.

About 5.5 miles in total.

Ladybugs!:

Reversed

Saturday, March 19, I got out to Trabuco Canyon about 7AM to run my regular fourteen mile loop, but this time in reverse. Reversed the loop is: up Trabuco Trail, UP W. Horsethief (Mama Mia!), up and down The Main Divide, and then finally down Holy Jim (Joy, joy!)

Although I arrived fairly early to the Holy Jim lot, it was already full, except for one spot that I backed into next to the porta potty. There was a large group of hikers prepping for a hike to Santiago Peak via Holy Jim.  Seeing this made me a little glad that I had decided to reverse my loop with that many people going up (had to be more than twenty). Though I really do love people, I tend to shy away from them, as I prefer solitude.

So, I took off trotting up Trabuco Trail toward the trailhead when one by one, 4wd trucks began to pass me. One truck stopped, and the man inside rolled down his window and I thought I heard him ask, “You lift?” I almost answered, “Well, no, but I used to.” But I stopped myself short, thinking, “Now Lauren,  he’s NOT going to ask if you lift weights.” So, with my early morning diversified and bountiful vocabulary said, “Huh?”

Turns out he asked if I WANTED a lift. (Laughing). Then another driver asked if I wanted a ride. I chuckled and replied, “No thank-you, THIS is the goal,” and continued on running toward the Trabuco Trailhead where a dozen or so cars had already parked. It is very rare that even a single car is parked in this lot.

Well, a group of sixteen hikers were going up W. Horsethief this Saturday morning. And it turned out to be okay, in fact pleasurable going up that terrible, beautiful trail with sixteen others.  It’s actually comforting to suffer with others, even strangers, I think especially with strangers.

To my utter delight, salamanders roamed Trabuco Trail on the way to W. Horsethief. They were everywhere crawling about the moist trail. I can’t tell you how much I love salamanders– they’re adorable! When one some of the hikers caught me, we got to talking about the salamanders, and I told John, the hiker in front of me, that they reminded me of puppies. “That’s weird,” he said with a chuckle. I told him I was serious, that when I pick salamanders up and look at their little orange faces, their faces remind me of puppies. (I had already picked up three or four that morning). John said, “Have you ever thought of getting help for that Lauren?” (Big laughs here).

Reaching the top of W. Horsethief came as a huge relief. Really! That climb is super tough for me and I take it at an actual snail’s pace. I didn’t take The Main Divide much faster, but at least I was able to run the flats and down hills, and some of the up hills that were not so steep and long. The views and the trek were literally breathtaking – wait, maybe the breathtaking came from the march up toward Trabuco Peak! That’s a brutal trek also, especially as warm as it was on Saturday.

Off roaders passed here and there. Everyone waved.  Views of Riverside and San Bernardino counties were crystal clear. I could still see snow on The San Gabriels. On the OC. side, the ocean was covered with a sea of clouds.  

I actually ran up on three or four runners along The Main Divide, which is rare. At the Holy Jim trailhead, several hikers rested in the shade, beat from the climb up. One man wore a netted hat, though the gnats were far and few between. 

I felt great running down Holy Jim. What pure joy to run down that giant switchback! I came upon several hikers and a couple of cyclists. I even ran up on a runner who recognized me from this blog. His name is Brandon, and I really enjoyed stopping and talking local trails with him. He’s one of the few people I can talk Yaeger Mesa about. He even knew the story of the bell up there. He knows the guy who carried it up. Anyway, we must have chatted for ten minutes before I took off again, delighted in the cool breeze (as I had been growing quite warm).  Euphoria set in while finishing up Holy Jim. Gosh, euphoria is one of the great benefits of trail running – perhaps the best (and it does not always come along). 

The bottom of the canyon was absolutely packed with day hikers. Most everyone was smiling, but I noticed a few grimaces, as uphill hiking isn’t so enjoyable if you haven’t  done it before. I overheard a woman complain about the gnats. And I thought, Oh my, you have not seen nothing yet!  He, he – better learn to embrace the gnats.

Great time out there on this day.

14.21 miles, 3,519’ elevation gained.

Back to the Scene of the Crash

Saturday, March 12, I hit the trails to return to the scene of the accident that broke my arm. In fact, I ran the exact route: Holy Jim to The Main Divide, down West Horsethief to Trabuco (where the crash occurred) back into the Holy Jim lot. 

I am happy to report that I did not crash again. Sadly, I gingerly made my way across the rocks along Trabuco Trail so fearful was I that I would fall again. But overall, I spent a marvelous several hours in the mountains. I wore a jacket most of the time, and even gloves, and didn’t need even half the water that I packed. I was serenaded by the woodpeckers hammering against the tree trunks as I made my way up Holy Jim. I also met several hikers on the way up, and then spent many sweet lonely hours along The Main Divide. Come to think of it, I didn’t run across anyone on W. Horsethief or Trabuco either. Running down West Horsethief was a bit tricky, as the rocky terrain still strikes fear in me. A fall on West Horsethief would most likely fare far worse than one on Trabuco.

I love this route. It’s the toughest 14 miles I know. Probably the most beautiful in my parts too.  I think it’s apropos that it would be THIS route that would break something. It was bound to happen I suppose.

14.07 miles, 3,605’ of elevation gain

Catching Up

Running has nearly come to a halt, a screeching halt.  Though I still have a couple trips out there that have not been blogged. The foot is better, but not at all healed.  I am fine to put in around five to seven miles, but afterward, I am limping about for the rest of the day and into the next.  It is what it is, and I am learning to live with the disappointment.   

First, to catch up with the end of August:

The 20th, I believe it was, I drove my truck with my friend Emmett to the Trabuco Trail head.  We left super early in the morning to avoid the heat, and we made a trek up Trabuco Trail and then the dreaded West Horsethief to the Main Divide for an out-and-back totaling about seven miles. The trip up Horsethief wasn’t so bad mainly because I had mentally prepared myself for pure hell.  When I expect hell, it’s never as bad.  Emmett made it up to the top well before me.  Then he gave me a five minute head start for the trip down, which was down right treacherous.  Fist sized rocks rolled beneath my feet, as ground fell away here and there as my foot hit.  I worried when Emmett hadn’t caught up by the time I hit Trabuco Trail.  Turns out that he took a couple of nasty falls.  That trail is extremely difficult to keep a foothold.  It’s scary too, because a fall could throw you off the mountain.

Somehow my SD card got corrupted and I lost all of the awesome pictures I took of our trip (boo hoo!! I lost the selfie pics of me and Emmett), but I did have these two gems from my phone camera:

Going up W. Horsethief, looking out toward the Pacific Ocean (which is beneath the clouds) and Yaeger Mesa which is about mid photo on the left:

Coming down W. Horsethief, near the top @ The Main Divide:

About a week later, I got in another 7 mile trip in Aliso/Wood Canyons.   This time, I decided to start at the top of the park instead of in the canyon like I usually do.  I parked my truck at Moulton Meadows in Laguna Beach and in a trepid manner made my way down another treacherous decline – this one called Mentally Sensitive.  A rattlesnake caught me by surprise on that tiny single-track.  But I noticed it in time to steer clear and even catch a photo.  After reaching Wood Canyon, I took that trail to Mathis, which is a nice climb out back to the ridge. On the ridge I spotted my second rattler, and was able to snap another snake photo. 

Some scenes from my last summer trail run:

Toward the top of Mentally Sensitive:

Snake #1:

Looking down from West Ridge onto Laguna Canyon Road:

Snake #2:

Caught up.  Now I can rest easy.

The Trespasser

I often wondered about a particular trail that I’ve seen while running Santiago Truck Trail on my way to Old Camp.  After studying maps and looking at satellite images, I concluded that the trail in question is Joplin Truck trail, and it winds down the mountain dumping out somewhere in Rose Canyon.  From the maps and images I couldn’t precisely figure out where to catch Joplin Truck Trail in Rose Canyon.  I decided that my best bet in figuring out Joplin was to take it from above -- from Santiago Truck Trail.  However, the trip to the junction from Modjeska Canyon is around seven miles.  But from Trabuco Canyon, there’s a hellish trail (hellish because of the steep grade and exposure) that’s only about two miles to Joplin Truck Trail.  

Yesterday, Thursday July 2nd, in the middle of summer, during the afternoon, I thought it would be a good idea to finally check out Joplin Truck Trail.  I wanted something hard.  And I got it.

I parked my truck at the mouth of Trabuco Canyon, off of Plano Trabuco Road, just before Rose Canyon, and I trekked up the road into the canyon.  I covered a couple flat miles, past large sections of fenced properties riddled with “No Trespassing” signs.  At about two miles I hit Cadillac Trail which quickly ascends into the Santa Ana Mountains.  Cadillac Trail is named so, I believe because of the wrecked car a short distance up.  I have no idea if the car is a Cadillac.  It’s pretty smashed and all markings have been removed.  Maps name this trail Trabuco Creek Road.  

The trip up Cadillac was hot and steep.  Flies bit my legs, my arms.  And as I ascended the mountain, I noticed a couple trucks below make their way to Cadillac Trail. It was so lonely up there, I kind of hoped that one would attempt the drive up.  None did, they either turned around or headed further into the canyon.  I could tell 4WD’s had made the trip by the tire marks in the dirt.  There were also dirt bike marks, but no mountain bike tracks.  And occasionally, I’d see a footprint.  

In addition to the 70 fluid ounces in my hydration pack, I carried a bottle of water for the purpose of getting my bandana wet.  I frequently stopped to drench the bandana and wear it over my head or drape it around my neck.  The trek was extremely slow, and there was very little running involved.  I took mental notes of faraway trails I spotted in the distance.  And I explored all turn offs to discover which direction they travelled.  But I always went back to the main trail because my direction was up.  Up.  Up.  Up.

All the while, I could feel the tiny chunks of flesh being ripped from my legs by the flies.  A couple of times I found a bit of shade where I stopped to cool down and and the flies feasted on my flesh.  I noticed there were three types.  Some flies looked just like houseflies, except a little blacker and more than twice the size.  These flies took the biggest bites, but they also took a second before chomping so I often swatted them away before they bit.  There were also smaller flies with feathery wings.  They were black as well.  But these critters were much slower than the giant houseflies.  When I swatted them, I often killed or maimed the devils.  The third type of fly, that I didn’t identify until I sat in the shade, was an oblong insect, dark gray.  They wore what looked like a helmet, which made me think that they resembled little penises.  So, henceforth, I will call these flies penisflies.  Their bites hurt as well.  But as I got moving, the penisflies seemed to leave me.

With about 3/4’s of a mile remaining before my turnoff, I came upon another hiker.  His face was red, and he hunched over slightly, presumably fatigued like myself.  He commented how difficult it must have been for me going up this trail because it was so difficult going down.  Quickly afterward, I came upon his hiking partner, a female who was taking the slope slowly.  Poor kids (though they weren’t actually kids, but younger than myself) had come a long way -- all the way from Cook’s Corner (I’m approximating a good 10 miles, and they had more than that to get back).  These two were the only people that I’d see on this adventure.  I hoped that I’d see them again when I closed my loop and headed back toward Trabuco Canyon. 

Cadillac Trail:Looking back at The OC:

Two full hours into my trip, I finally made the junction down to Old Camp (a mere four miles of travelling).  Before moving on, I found a sliver of shade where I sat and drenched my bandana.  Heading onward, I soon found a trail that went off to the left.  Unable to get a signal for my phone GPS, I hiked up that trail for a high point.  I came upon the black remnants of a campfire and very little evidence of the trail reaching further.  Fortunately, I got a signal and found that there was a more promising trail about a quarter mile away.  I ran the short distance and found an unkempt, eroded single track.  I thought this could not possibly be the trail, though I did discover some mountain bike tracks.  No foot prints though.  Fortunately, I got a signal to check out the GPS and sure enough, I had arrived at Joplin Truck Trail.  Though no truck would ever be able to traverse this terrain.  It was single-track in the truest sense.  Single file, no side-by-side running for sure.  The trail was overgrown, rocky and covered with ruts and erosion. 

I ran along Joplin Truck Trail exposed to great heat, no shade, but glory, glory, no flies.  An occasional breeze also helped out.  And I still had plenty of water in my bottle to douse my bandana.  All the while, I travelled in the opposite direction of Trabuco Canyon where I had parked my truck.  Though I checked frequently, I no longer had a signal to access the GPS.  

Close to two miles down, the trail changed directions and I found myself running back toward Trabuco Canyon.  Orange County laid before me in all its glory.  I could see that clouds covered the Pacific Ocean.  And I could see Joplin Youth Center getting closer and closer. 

Joplin Youth Center is a lockdown correctional facility for very young (15 years and younger) felony criminals.  I know this because about 17 years ago, when I was pregnant with my first son I substitute taught for the county schools, which included “court schools” such as those located in juvenile hall, Los Pinos Boys Home, and Joplin Youth Center.  I accepted an assignment for Joplin back then, and recall driving a windy road through what I now know as Rose Canyon.  After passing through locked and guarded gates, I arrived to this facility full of wonder.  How could these young teen aged boys have gone so vastly astray at such a young age?  The center housed felons, rapists and murders among them.  I was some months pregnant at the time, expecting my own son.  I remember being weepy-eyed at the thought of mothers worrying about their criminally sentenced minors.  

I was terribly frightened to take on this assignment, more so than I was running down Joplin Truck Trail toward the facility on this hot summer day (where I probably had a greater chance of dying than I did taking on that substitute teaching job at Joplin Youth Center).  Turned out, the boys were terribly charming.  Visibly pregnant, they dotted over me, offering to do everything -- get the television and VCR, find me a chair in the lunchroom, even serve me lunch.  The way my assignment worked was this:  I was locked into the classroom.  Guards roamed the hallways with keys.  I kept a walkie-talkie with me.  If I needed help, or needed the classroom unlocked for any reason, I could radio the guards.  Here’s what happened:  within the first fifteen minutes locked in my classroom, my walkie-talkie disappeared.  Fortunately, after (nervously) chuckling out loud and demanding its return, one of the boys fessed up and handed it over.  There were no further incidents that day, except for my amazement over how these seemingly wonderful boys could be so ruthless in society.  I never had the opportunity to return to Joplin Youth Center before now, and here I was, a fifty year old woman, running straight toward it down the mountain on a scorching, hot summer day. 

With some of the outbuildings just in sight, I came upon a sycamore grove.  There was a particularly shady spot where a waterfall obviously made its home during our wetter years.  And then, bam -- my trail ended.  It was washed out.  But I was too committed in this loop to turn back.  So, I gingerly made my way down a ravine, butt sliding where needed, and half crawled my way back up to the trail on the other side, thrilled that I would soon be in Rose Canyon.  But I worried too.  What if the trail ended at the boys’ home?  What was I to do then?  Could I skirt along the lockdown facility?  If so, would I be accosted by authorities?  In preparation, I hid my camera.  And I also took the knife off my pack and buried it in my pocket (which of course made it now a concealed weapon -- doh!)

Washed out:

Back on the trail:

And then something happened that I did not expect.  The trail forked, but both ends of the fork were fenced off with barbed wire.  On the ground was a rusted sign that read Joplin Truck Trail, Cleveland National Forest.  Erected in its spot was a sign that read:  No Trespassing. Do Not Enter, Correctional Facility.  I did not have enough fluids to return the way I came. I cannot say that I thought my out my situation carefully.  Instead, I scampered along the barbed fences hoping that they ended in the brush.  But they did not.  The barbed wire scaled up and down the canyon walls.  I considered trying to telephone the assholes at Joplin Youth Center and demanding that they let me in so that I could pass through, else I die on this forsaken trail.  (I was pissed!)

“Okay, okay, THINK!”  There’s got to be a way through this (last choice phoning Joplin Youth Center).  I shook the gate, hoping that it would open enough for me to squeeze through.  I tried stepping down on the barbed wire.  And then I noticed that a portion of the wire across the left fork seemed to have a wider opening than the rest.  And so, I got down on my knees and attempted to crawl through.  My pack got caught, and the water bottle flew out, landing on the other side of the fence, way out of reach.  I shimmied my pack and hat off stooped down there between the barbed wires, hoping that would be enough to get me through.  No luck.  And so I scooted back out, grabbed my pack and hat from the other side and wistfully waved my bottle of water good-bye.

Next, I inspected the fence along the right side of the fork.  That’s when I noticed that some of the wire directly in front of the No Trespassing sign was not barbed.  Hallelujah!  Wait a minute . . . did I say in front of the sign?  That’s right.  I was standing on the side of the fence that the sign warned not entering!  I hoped the non-barbed section, free and happy to be making my way down Joplin Trail legally.  

The trail was steep, but it was shady.  It was lonely and spooky too.  With no GPS signal I felt confident that the trail lead in the right direction even though I found no tracks.  Much to my dismay however, I encountered my next sign.  This sign warned me also that I was trespassing, this time upon a wilderness preserve.  Hell.  I really had no choice but to keep on going, checking frequently for a phone signal.   More and more overgrown, I feared this portion of the trail had not been walked upon for a long while.  And then another No Trespassing sign.  And then another.  Eventually, I got a phone signal, but I could not see the image on my gps – it was too dark.  I was able though to phone home and talk to my husband.  I mentioned briefly where I was and that I hoped to be reaching Rose Canyon shortly.  But overall, I was pretty much going to be arriving home late.  I had already passed the 6 mile mark, which was what I had approximated this run to be.  

Looking back on Joplin Truck Trail after hopping the fence:

Continuing on through the “Preserve”:

Eventually, I made it to a paved road in Rose Canyon.  But I was locked in, and needed to hop this little fence to get back into legal territory. 

Just call me the trespasser. 

I guess it’s time to mark up my maps.