Holy Jim / Main Divide / Horse thief / Trabuco Loop

I posted a run on my trail running group’s forum,  an out-and-back up Holy Jim in the Santa Ana Mountains for this morning.  I used Twin Peaks to plug this run, because Twin Peaks goes up and down Holy Jim (Saddleback Marathon of which I’m registered, also goes up this 5 mile climb).  Twin Peaks, if I haven’t already mentioned, is a 50 mile race that takes place in two weeks that runs the Santa Ana Mountains,  going to Santiago Peak TWICE.  (Which is why I’ve been running to the peak like a mad-woman lately – but regardless, I'd probably still be a mad woman).   Twin Peaks is the race that I’m pacing, the one that I will run to the peak once, and down upper Holy Jim, the Main Divide and/or Indian Truck Trail possibly in the dark.

There was one “no-show” this morning, plus Jeremy, and two runners training for Twin Peaks, Scott and Chris, and of course, myself.  We met relatively late,  (6:30) but didn’t take off driving to the trail head until 6:50 AM.

The weather was cool, the skies gray.  Not another car was parked in the trail head lot.  I got great enjoyment talking to two folks who would be running Twin Peaks.  I wanted to know their strategies, goals, etc.  And happily, I was able to provide a little advice, being that I know these trails pretty well.  One question that was asked of me was, “Which point of the race do you think will be most difficult?”  Well, I’ve never run a 50 mile race, but I had an opinion.  I believe, miles 30 through 32 running UP Horsethief will be extremely difficult – though short, that climb is the steepest they’ll encounter.  And then of course, running to Santiago Peak FOR THE SECOND TIME will be very difficult as well.  (Notice that I didn’t even mention Holy Jim – that’s how difficult this race will be). 

Digressing too much . . . I took up the rear running up Holy Jim.  Nothing unusual about that.  What was unusual was that I felt strong the entire trip.  
I didn’t necessarily think I was making great time, but I just didn’t feel beat up.  At one point, I thought these exact thoughts, “Boy, if I can run Holy Jim this strong during Saddleback, I will definitely improve my time.”  At the very instant that this thought ended, I ATE DIRT.  The timing of my fall cracked me up so much that I didn’t realize my injuries (though minor they were).  I gashed my left palm, scraped my left knee and right shin, but nothing terrible.

Jeremy was waiting at the top of Holy Jim.  The first thing I asked was, “’What’s the time?”  Ends up I ran from the lot up all of Holy Jim to Bear Springs in 1 hour and 38 minutes.  I was extremely pleased.  My record is 1 hour 45 minutes.   

Ready to take off up Holy Jim, from left to right, Chris, Scott, Jeremy, Me

Creek Crossing on Holy Jim (so shady it seems dark still)

Canopy on Holy Jim

Running Holy Jim

Scott ran off for a bigger loop going down Trabuco Trail.  Chris opted for a slightly smaller loop going down Horsethief.  When I met Jeremy at Bear Springs, he suggested changing the route to do a loop (adding several more miles that we had to do quickly because he needed to get home). I was more than happy to oblige.  (HOWEVER, I FORGOT ABOUT THE MILE LONG WALL LOOMING AHEAD )  About 3 minutes later I began hiking in almost a frantic pace anticipating the next climb. I wanted these extra difficult miles for lots of reasons.  For starters:  1) I need the training, 2) I need to do hard running quickly and, 3) Jeremy has come out to run with me so many times that I wanted to repay the favor.  However, I’m not sure staying in the rear and making it seem like we weren’t going to make his cut off was such a favor. 

Head NOT in, but ABOVE the clouds

Jeremy and I ran the main divide above the clouds.  I really could not run much of the mile or so incline (The Wall) toward the next peak.  When I did hike, I tried to do so with force – that is, keeping my running arms and overall form.

With Jeremy up ahead I met two runners training for Twin Peaks (Rod and Francisco) and they fit the usual mold for trail runners that I love so much.  They were so positive!  They actually applauded me for “ploughing” up a hill (which of course, I felt more like I was plodding). 

Off and on I caught up with Jeremy (Chris and Scott had already raced ahead).  As I struggled running up one incline, Jeremy pointed out a buck racing, and I mean RACING  down the divide.  He was huge compared to what I usually encounter in the coastal hills.  I believe he was probably a four pointer.  Not that I stood there and counted the points on his antlers.  No way!   I didn’t even think to take out my camera.  The only thought that went through my mind as I ran up the Main Divide was this, “If that buck runs into me, he’s going to kill me.” 

There was really no place to hide, no trees or such.  Instinctively, I ran to the trail’s edge, thinking that guy’s not going to run off a cliff.  I just kept thinking of those cats, squirrels, skunks, etc. on the side of the road as I drive by, who seem so confused then suddenly dart out in front of your car.  I thought that deer might suddenly veer toward me just like that.. 

Then in a surreal way, that deer braked and ran up, I mean straight-up a mountain wall and disappeared in the thicket.  Relieved, I felt happy to experience that moment, but just a tad bummed that I didn’t have the wits to pull out my camera.

Horsethief/Main Divide intersection talking with 2 Twin Peaks trainers (far left Rob, middle Francisco)

I really tried to keep a quick pace running down Horse thief.  Very steep, it’s also extremely rocky.  I tripped at least twice.  Once I thought I was going to “eat dirt” and it was going to be big time – meaning big injuries.  Core work, I believe saved me as I pulled myself upright.

Views Running down Horsethief

I met up with Jeremy and Scott on Trabuco Trail.  Confused, because I thought we were still on Horsethief, both guys looked at me like they understood my confusion (else they thought I was just plain crazy, because I wasn’t sure if Scott was the guy we drove in with).

Not too soon after that, both guys got a bit ahead of me.  I concentrated on not falling and staying in the present moment.  I really didn’t think that I’d catch the guys.

Trabuco Trail

With a couple miles remaining, maybe it was less than a couple miles, I spotted Scott and Jeremy ahead a ways – catchable a ways!  And so I told myself, “Catch up!”  I had to sprint to do that and surprised the two who made room for me to run along.  Then I told myself, “beat them to the lot.”  And without them knowing that I was racing (LOL), when I knew the lot was very close I sprinted my way in to “beat them.”  It’s best to keep it a secret when you’re me and your trying to race fellow runners.   

I found Chris waiting for us at the lot.  Sadly, but I think it will benefit him for Twin Peaks, he headed back up Holy Jim to meet me and Jeremy.  Of course, we weren’t there, because we changed our route! 

Fun, fun day.  Though I fell, and my hand still hurts, my running partners pushed me enough that I believe I improved even more.

Thanks for coming out guys! (Scott, far left, opted to run back to the canyon lot – an additional 4.5 miles or so)

Miles logged today:  14

When the Cussin’ Ceases on Holy Jim

This morning I finally got back to the mountains (Thanks to Jeremy H. and Hank G.), specifically my favorite trail Holy Jim.  I never run the mountains alone, so I am most appreciative that I had these two friends to run with.

My history with Holy Jim Trail in the Cleveland National Forest:  I first “ran” Holy Jim during the Saddleback Marathon last November.  That race was the first time I had ever laid eyes on the trail.  I ran the beginning portions, but somewhere along the switch-back climbing, I lost all energy and had to hike.  I began leg and foot cramping toward the end, and even found myself crawling through several inches of acorns to reach the top.  I had no idea when it was going to end, so the experience was pretty much torturous.  I’m not sure, but I wouldn’t be surprised if I said one or two cuss words on Holy Jim that day.

That experience really “got my goat”.  I wasn’t going to let Holy Jim chew me up like that again.  My goal is to make it up that five mile trail as much as possible.

General History of Holy Jim Trail:  The trail is named after James T. Smith who lived in a cabin off the trail during the late 1800’s.  He was a beekeeper who also grew fig trees.  He was originally known by the name “Cussing Jim.”  Apparently, according to one source Jim was “a man given to blasphemous eloquence. When he started cussing. . . he could peel paint off a stove pipe."  Anyway, when surveyors arrived in 1870, they thought it more appropriate to name the canyon “Holy Jim” instead of “Cussing Jim.”

Today’s Adventure:  I actually started off this trail run feeling cold.  That’s a laugh, because not fifteen minutes in I ached to take off my long-sleeved shirt.  But I waited until our detour where we stopped at Holy Jim Falls.  After a quick few pictures, I peeled off that shirt and took off again behind Hank and Jeremy toward the trail.  The climb up Holy Jim was breathtakingly beautiful.  Yet, it was HOT.  Go figure. 

I ran the entire Holy Jim Trail, sure at times at a snail’s pace.  Hank lead the pack and waited patiently at the Bear Springs on the Main Divide as Jeremy and I arrived.  From there, the weather grew even hotter.  But it was bearable.  Only once did my temperature rise to 2 degrees above normal.  Mostly, despite feeling otherwise, it remained normal or at most 1 degree above. 

The big climb on Lake Elsinore’s side of the Main Divide nearly did me in.  But I kept my eyes on the prize – DOWNHILL and a cold creek at the bottom.  Jeremy ran out of water first.  Not that he came ill-prepared.  He brought along more than I.  It was just that hot out this morning along the ridge.  We drained our water quickly.  That worried me a bit, so I began to conserve my fluids as we ran that rocky switch-back down Horsethief.  I tripped SEVERAL times.  I never fell. 

Upon finally reaching the canyon, I drenched myself in the nearly ice-cold creek.  Jeremy came up and did the same.  And then I ran on in those last extremely hot and long remaining three plus miles, running out of water with about 2.5 miles remaining.  I hadn’t seen Jeremy since the creek or Hank since somewhere on Horsethief.  I knew how to get back.  But I worried that Hank, being such an excellent runner, was going to get out so far ahead he could take a wrong turn (he’s used to trails elsewhere).  And I worried about Jeremy’s lack of water for so long.  He had decided to conserve energy and was back behind me.  Apparently though, Jeremy seemed to handle lack of fluids WAY better than I do. (I think it’s the mother in me, because there was no need to worry).

I met up with Hank on Trabuco and we ran on into the lot and straight into the stream.  I wanted to lay down in it.  Instead we just drenched ourselves with that cold, cold water until Jeremy came in.  And this is how well Jeremy takes lack of water.  He didn’t even dive into the creek, he went straight to the car, got some water and chatted with mountain bikers until Hank and I finally pulled ourselves from the stream to head on home.

Great run!  Wonderful company!

Miles logged:  14.3 (23.01km) / ps.  I should note that I wore my regular New Balance Trail shoes, not the Minimus due to the length and harshness of this run.

Scenes from today’s Holy Jim (Cussin’ Jim) Run:

Prepped to go (left to right, Jeremy, Hank & Me):

Stream Crossing on Holy Jim Trail:

Holy Jim Falls (photo compliments of Jeremy):

View climbing Holy Jim:

Glorious shade on Holy Jim Trail:

Nearing top of Holy Jim:

Jeremy running Main Divide:

View toward The O.C. at Indian Truck Trail and Main Divide Junction:

(Photo compliments of Jeremy)

Ready to descend on Horsethief:

Flowers along Horsethief:

View from Horsethief:

Trabuco Canyon:

Elevation Profile:

Holy Jim? Holy Cr*p!

I was so fortunate to have a taker again for another run in our local mountains, someone else crazy enough to run up Holy Jim – they’re out there.  Yes, they are!  Today, I took the trip beneath dry skies with Tom Bychowski up  Holy Jim (also referred to by some as “Holy Cow” or “Holy Crap”.)  Now my 3rd time up, it isn’t that bad.  What Holy Jim is, is LONG.  Sure it’s uphill.  But the grade isn’t ridiculously steep (much less than Horse Thief).  Five miles uphill, I’m pretty sure is long by most people’s standards. 

Holy Jim begins in the canyon and goes all the way to The Main Divide (the ridge that overlooks Riverside County and Orange County).  Holy Jim trail is green and gorgeous with several stream crossings, lots of shade cover and then pretty much exposed, single-track, switch-back, high in the sky.  I found it difficult to keep up with Tom (& actually I didn’t that much), but I didn’t worry about that so much.  I just kept plugging away, trying hard to look up and not down. 

The trail is simply glorious.

Crossing stream on Holy Jim Trail

Tom on Holy Jim Trail – it’s switch-back time!

Self portrait going up Holy Jim Trail

Don’t rightly recall how I got in front of Tom here on Holy Jim, but it was an ideal photo-op.

More Scenes going up Holy Jim:

Finally running The Main Divide

That’s Lake Elsinore below – beneath the clouds:

Running down West Horse Thief (Tom thought a good rename would be Crazy Horse – I agree).  Rocky, switch-back, back beneath the clouds:

Getting closer to Trabuco Creek on West Horse Thief

Coming in for the final stretch on Trabuco Trail to finish up this 14 mile run was long indeed.  I was thankful for shade bursts, though the weather was cool.  Thing was, I ran out of water toward the end.  Dreaming of a tall glass of ice water helped keep me running.  Then I remembered the first time I ran these mountains with the other Tom (Tom Fangrow) I spotted a bullet-ridden car.  I didn’t see that car last week.  I didn’t see it during the Saddleback Marathon.  So, I began the search.  And I swear I found it in a very different place, much closer to the trail.   I think our December rains moved it some. 

Here’s the Car:

Miles logged today:  14

No elevation profile – I actually forgot to strap on the garmin!  But it’s the same profile as last Sunday.  Hard. 

What to do about Horse Thief Trail–just keep going up it. Face your nemesis, and sooner or later you’ll conquer.

Early to bed, early to rise.  That’s the way I like it.  This morning I drove up Ortega Highway to Blue Jay Campground to meet fellow runner Jeremy.  I would never run the trails up there alone, so I was so happy that Jeremy agreed to accompany me.  I posted the run on the OCTR, but this morning, no other takers.  All you need is two to make a group right?

Right?  The main thing I learned as a young girl in Girl Scouts is the buddy system – always take someone with you.  I don’t always do that in my local hills.  But in the mountains the buddy system in my mind is crucial.  Cougars roam up there!  (The other precious gem I learned in Girl Scouts was, “Make new friends, but keep the old.  One is silver and the other gold.”)

The weather was overcast.  Delight, delight.  And to my surprise the campground was pretty  crowded.  (Spring break in our parts right now.)  Jeremy showed the way for a quicker route to San Juan Trail that I completely forgot about.  I would have taken us around the long way on PAVEMENT.  Right away on that first trail though, a rocky single track, I actually fell!  The fall really took me by surprise – I was down before I knew I was falling.  I usually don’t fall first thing.  Falls normally happen when I’m super tired or giddy.  Perhaps I was giddy.

I have to go back and research to know for sure.  But I think that’s fall #11.  But it might be more, since I’ve fallen a few times lately after a long sabbatical of no falls.  I don’t recall seeing any other runners on this lovely run.  We saw some hikers (one guy who seemed to eye us suspiciously, like he thought we were a couple of nuts running in the mountains.)  Some dirt bikers plowed up the trails, and we also met a couple of mountain bikers at Trabuco Creek.  Overall, the trails were pretty empty, especially Horse Thief Trail and the Main Divide afterwards. 

The Run elevation profile below:  3,014 feet elevation gain (Horse Thief runs from a little after the 5 mile mark to about 7 miles).

Running, well . . . actually posing on San Juan Creek Trail. 

Running down Trabuco Trail

By the time we reached Trabuco Creek, Jeremy pointed out my knee.  Yikes!  It didn’t look like this after the fall!

Time for a group picture and a hesitant moment before the big climb up Horse Theif.  Notice I’ve taken off my long sleeved shirt.  The climb is really the most difficult I’ve encountered.  Tougher than Bulldog in Malibu Creek Park (though Horse Thief thankfully, is shorter). 

Going Up Horse Thief

At the top at last, running the Main Divide

Pretty yellow flowers alongside the trail – it’s springtime!

Jeremy poses with Lake Elsinore far below

I think, I’m not positive, that Horse Thief was a little easier this time.  One advantage going up today was that the temperatures have lowered and the sun hid behind the clouds.  If only I could get out there once a week to train, I think I’d greatly improve.  Thanks to one brave runner, Jeremy, I was able to get out there and run this morning.  (That’s not to say there’s not lots of brave runners out there, it just takes a lot to get up here, waking early, and a driving a long windy drive up a mountain with other drivers riding your tail to get over the mountain, etc.) 

Quite a run!  Very enjoyable, not to mention tiring.  I call that a plus/plus.  Miles logged:  12

ps.  some of these pictures are courtesy Jeremy, I didn’t mark the exact ones, because I’m so dang tired, happily tired.