Great Awakening

My outlook has shifted drastically lately. Things have been snowballing in my mind and I believe in my spirit too this month. And as a result, I wake before dawn, without effort, every day. I have had a great change in perspective. But that is for another day. Not today. I will say that November 2020 has been a month of transformation. And 21 days into that month, I took a pleasurable hike up Black Star Canyon to Beek’s Place on The Main Divide. Round trip, including a couple of detours, totaled 16.5 miles which is quite a bit more than I’m used to lately. The climb was tough, but I did it in celebration of my great awakening.

People say that Black Star Canyon is haunted. I’ve never experienced or seen anything that looked like a haunting. The canyon surely doesn’t have an uplifting history with a terrible school bus accident, an infamous massacre in 1831 and other troubling activities in more recent times. I honestly don’t believe that it’s haunted. To be fair, I’m not sure I believe in hauntings all together. But I do believe in a spiritual world, and there may be something spiritual about the place. It is a place that I love, that’s for sure. Even though it’s just a switchback truck trail, the climb is a joyful struggle with spectacular views.

The morning of November 21 began quite cold, but it warmed up quickly, as soon as the steep climb out of the canyon began (at about mile 2.5). When the climb begins, it’s ruthless for about the next 3 miles. Just after the Mariposa Reserve sign, there’s an old Native American camp where you can see the holes in the rocks where they ground their food – perhaps acorns, as the area is covered with Oak Trees. I stopped at this spot for a while and sat at one of the large boulders overlooking the valley from which I had just climbed out. After that spot, there’s a descent down onto a lovely plateau where the hike becomes magical – an old isolated country road winding it’s way through scattered Oaks and yellowing Maples. The nice flat reprieve through the plateau is short lived however, ending with more climbing switchbacks to the final destination, Beek’s Place on The Main Divide. Of course, I spent much time at Beek’s place as I always do. But having left my home so early in the morning, I had plenty of time and did not need to worry about rushing back to make it out before dark. Even with the detours I was back at my truck by early afternoon. Of course, I arrived home wiped out.

Where Mariposa Reserve starts:Old “Indian” camp:The “plateau”:Looking back at the “plateau”:Beek’s Place:

Lonesome Road

June 17, I didn’t wake early as planned. Surprisingly, that didn’t stop me from heading out to Black Star Canyon. I looked at weather reports first, and seeing that the high in Silverado Canyon was 73 Fahrenheit, I was good to go. My feet hit dirt at 10:30 am.

Though the base of the canyon was full of hikers, once I turned off to the left, away from the creek, up toward The Main Divide, I travelled a lonesome road. What a lovely lonesome road it was. Sure, it was warm, but the occasional cool breezes rectified that. Black Star Canyon is still comfortable in June, which is why I chose it for the day’s hike. Soon, it will be too hot, and I haven’t been into that in a long time.

Once in a great while hiking up that lonely dirt road, I would come upon a mountain biker, and once I caught up with a man heading up Black Star Canyon Road for the first time. He was looking for a place to rest, and I told him that he wasn’t that far from the Indian Village site that he was hoping to come upon. We were just about to enter the Mariposa Reserve during our chat. Mariposa Reserve is my happy place. I call it that right now because just the mere thought of the plateau that makes up most of the reserve soothes my soul and brings down my heart rate.

My first stop in the reserve was to take a single track, about a half mile down to the creek. There’s a little bush whacking, and lots of incline, all to arrive at a lovely shady spot at the creek.  It was still flowing, though slowly, which means there was a trickle at the falls. I came out at the single track in fact, very close to the top of Black Star Falls, so close that I could hear the voices of hikers hanging out down there. It’s exhilarating of course to sit there in that shady crevice of giant boulders above the falls without a soul around. It’s a bit spooky in fact. You can understand my surprise then when I saw four young men hiking down stream toward me.

Headed down to creek just above Black Star Falls

Wow. I didn’t expect that. And they didn’t expect me. When I made eye contact with the lead guy, he hollered back to his 3 friends, “Oh man, I think we’re back at the road.” Nope, I told him, the road’s up there. They were all delighted to learn that they had reached their destination, the top of Black Star Falls. Soon after that, I scurried back up to the trail, but not before urging the guys to be careful! My next destination: Beek’s Place.

Beek’s Place was lonely and lovely as usual. Though it was a bit hazy out, I still had views of San Gorgonio and the San Gabriel Mountains, not to mention Orange County and a socked in view of the Pacific Ocean. The Beek family had a wonderful location for their 1930s mountain retreat. I hung out at their place on this particular day for about thirty minutes before heading on.  There is much to take in from this spot – faraway views and ruins to rummage about. When I finally did head out, I climbed just a little bit further for one last stop before the long down hill. My last stop: the doppler tower.

Just a short distance from Beek’s Place, I have never visited the doppler. The reason being that I am always behind on time. And on this day, it was business as usual. I was behind on time. But it’s nearly summertime now, and it doesn’t get dark until after 8:00 pm – and so I went for it and headed up to the doppler tower where I hung out for a good fifteen minutes or more. As I headed back, I could see a helicopter hovering about in the far distance, somewhere over the Mariposa Reserve.

For the next few miles down, the helicopter continued to hover over the reserve. Eventually,I made a stop at the Indian Village site and ran out to the edge to get a closer view of the helicopter. I could see the red and white design of OCFA (Orange County Fire Authority). A person walked along the outside right edge. The pilot had his door open, and I could see him looking out the door below to the forest floor – precisely, it seemed, where I had been earlier, where I had met that group of young men, just a small ways from the top of Black Star Falls.Then all of a sudden, the person on the edge stepped off and was lowered down to the ground where the trees and brush swooshed in the chopper’s prop wash.

As I continued my way down Black Star Canyon Road, I lost sight of the scene. And then I came out again where the helicopter had landed just off to the side of the road. The wind it’s propeller made was fierce, though far enough away from myself, I could see all the brown summer grass swirling and whipping about on the mountainside. The chopper eventually left, only to return again as I approached the final stretch on the canyon floor. (I have found nothing online about this rescue, except for a blurb on the OCFA Twitter page confirming a rescue of a female with a leg injury in Black Start Canyon).

In all, I put in 17 miles and of course was so much better for it, though fatigued was I. Still love Black Star Canyon. It’s never too lonely.

17 miles, 2,700’ elevation gain

The Calm Before the Storm @ Beek's Place

Just before my family's (and much of my entire country's, and others') routines and plans for the next month or so came to a screeching halt, and just before this week or so of rains, I made it out to Black Star Canyon up to Beek's Place for a little over 16 miles (2,339' elevation gain). That was Sunday, March 8.  It was a cold day, but not freezing; it was perfect. I kept bundled the entire trip (aside from taking off the beanie). And the skies, they were spectacular -- blue with giant puffy clouds. There were dozens of us out there on the trails that day: mountain bikers, hikers, runners. I was out there getting in some hiking and running on these lovely trails before the rains set in. I was oblivious to how the next week would turn out with the coronavirus (COVID-19) beginning to make its way through various cities in the U.S. Since then, all three of my sons various events, music and such, have been cancelled. Two of my sons will be home for the next month because their public high school has closed. My oldest son's university has gone online, and my teaching has gone online too. Much to my surprise, the shelves are practically empty at the grocery stores. Business establishments have very few people in them. There's fewer people driving the roads. Right now people are getting ready to shelter in place. And its eerie and surreal. 

I am grateful for those hours up Black Star Canyon on March 12. I love Black Star Canyon still! The fields were green and blooming with purple lupin. The breeze was reinvigorating. As usual, I spent far too much time up at Beek's Place. Instead of coming in at 5 hours, it was more like 5 and 1/2 hours. All well worth it. Black Star Canyon was a great way to spend the calm before the storm -- the literal and the figurative storm. As soon as the rain breaks, I'll be back out on the trails. I figure that I'll be safe from viruses there, perhaps the only place for now. 

Making my way alongside the creek, before the climb begins:

Looking back at the dreamy plateau I just passed through:

On The Main Divide @ Beek's Place

Heading Back:

Black Star Falls for 54

I don't think about age much, especially mine, which is why I was confused this past week (Sat., February 16) when I thought that I was turning 53 years old. But then I did the math. The truth: I have now made the revolution around the sun 54 times. In celebration, my husband and I took the one day in between rains (we had been experiencing near constant rain) to hike out to Black Star Falls. The only other time I had ever made that hike was also with my husband, along with some friends. That first trip 9 years ago. It was another era in my life. It was when I was running all the time; I was much stronger physically then. I recall the hike being strenuous and what I would rate as a moderately difficult hike. 

And it was again -- a strenuous, moderately difficult hike. There was a difference though. This time, the creek was crashing through the canyon. Crashing. It was so full, there was no staying dry. It took so much mental focus traversing between the boulders and rapidly moving creek that it became tiresome. Other times, we were scrambling up mud banks, or but sliding down unwalkable surfaces. You really can't beat that type of hiking. It takes both mental and physical strength. And for me, I had some mental and physical strength to pull from, but I was slow moving. Slow moving was okay though, because that canyon was so lush and beautiful, that I loved all the time I could get taking it its glamour. 

Another difference nine years later, is the powers that be erected a sign pointing the way to the falls. As such, there were crowds of hikers on the 16th (I'd say more than 50). But the terrain was difficult enough to thinly spread out the field. Often it seemed like we were the only hikers (waders!) out there.  On a sad note, graffiti had been spray painted on some of the rocks (grrrrr!). 

The falls though -- wow. WOW. Absolutely remarkable how much water tumbled down into the creek. It was loud and misty. And the natural terrain of haphazard boulders made it comfortably easy to lounge about with a couple other dozen people where if we wanted to converse to one another, needed to yell because the falls were that loud. 

Black Star Canyon in the Summertime

I don’t want to merely reiterate everything from the video that I recorded from Friday’s hike in Black Star Canyon (I’ll put it at the end of this post.) I will repeat however, that I decided to hike Black Star Canyon on Friday. I’ve been yearning mountain trails for quite a while now, and being that I cannot access some of my favorites, I decided to venture out to Black Star Canyon --  which is fairly local, but I have very little experience with. I have hiked to Black Star Falls (which was wonderful). But I have never ventured past that turnoff on Black Star Canyon Road.

The reason that I don’t venture into Black Star Canyon is firstly because there are so many other wonderful trails at my doorstep. But also, my lack of enthusiasm for visiting this canyon was mainly due to a couple of unruly residents, one who had brandished guns at hikers and mountain bikers. The overall unwelcome attitude was well-known. I guess though that I haven’t been keeping up with news. I did not know it until my hike on Friday, that those residents no longer live in Black Star Canyon. I remember reading that one of them had been jailed. Now though, the cabins are all behind the electrified fence of Edwards Ranch.

(Edwards Ranch? I’m at a loss. I cannot find out anything about this property (yet). All I can say is that it appears the owner has many acres in the base of the canyon behind his or her’s electrified fences. I can’t see any crops, or even buildings for that matter. If you are reading this and know about the ranch, please comment below. I have searched quite a bit on the internet and can’t find anything concerning the goings-on behind the electrified fence of Edward’s Ranch.)

But yet there’s more about the canyon’s history. More as in the canyon is said to be haunted. Something happened in 1831 around The Hidden Ranch area (not called that then) in Black Star Canyon. I have found a variety of stories. The story with the most specific information says that  a group of Shoshone horse thieves terrorized the Californios (Spanish colonists of California) who lived in the area. The Shoshone were in fact not local, but lived in the Los Angeles area. Anyway, those Californios contracted a mountain man named William Wolfskill (who later developed the Valencia orange and became the largest wine producer in the region.) Best I can tell from various website sources, Wolfskill tracked the horse thieves from Los Angeles into Black Star Canyon where they fought at an area now known as Hidden Ranch.  Reportedly, most of the Shoshone were killed on sight. None of William’s men were killed, or in fact even injured. I found other stories with slight variations, and others say that this story is completely fabricated. Never happened.

And then years later in Black Star Canyon, in the area that is known as Hidden Ranch (same place where Wolfskill reportedly killed the Shoshone Indians) there was another deadly confrontation -- this time between two families: The Hungerfords and the Greggs. The two families were horse ranching families in Back Star Canyon. An argument occurred over the price of a horse that ended up with a shootout. Mr. James Gregg died from multiple gunshot wounds. This story is verified and appears to have actually happened. (There was a court case and such).

In addition sometime during  the 1970s, supposedly (I say supposedly because I cannot find any news articles to confirm this story) a school bus driver drove his bus off a cliff in Black Star Canyon. The bus driver, a teacher, and most of the children are reported to have been killed. There are other eerie reports too. I found a few websites that give vague reportings of Klu Klux Klan presence in the canyon (though I don’t know of any timeframe). And there was also a terrible incident in 2001 that I can collaborate with news articles from the time. In 2001, four teenagers ventured into the canyon under darkness. Not such a good idea. Some members of a notorious gang terrorized the teens, beating the boys unconscious and raping the girls. (LA Times article here)

Of course, I have no way of knowing how accurate these stories are. But this is a place relatively unexplored on my end. And since my regular lovely mountain spots are closed due to The Holy Fire, Black Star Canyon seemed like a good choice for my Friday afternoon hike. And it was . . . until it wasn’t. And when it got too hot. It wasn’t. Simply put. The weather was just too warm for me. And so instead of the original 15 miles that I thought that I would attempt, I turned back early, finishing up with 8 miles. I will return to Black Star Canyon in the winter for sure!

Some pictures from my hike (video at end):