Unspeakable Beauty (Trail Running in the Saddleback Mountains)

To bed early (9:00 AM – oh the glory!), I woke at 4 AM.  I hoped to make the drive to the Holy Jim trailhead by 5:40.  But I lazed around the house too long, drinking coffee, casually dressing, that I didn’t arrive until 5:50.  (At least I planned ahead and got my gas the night prior).

On my offroad drive into Trabuco Canyon, I noticed a smoldering camp fire.  A slight breeze blew through the canyon and I didn’t want to take my chances that this fire might spread.  Sure, I could escape, but what about my truck and all those cabins nestled into the canyon.    First off, and more importantly, who sets an illegal fire in the first place, then doesn’t completely extinguish it???  If you’re going to set an illegal fire, be DANG SURE TO PUT IT OUT.  I don’t mean to be judgmental, but am I wrong? Utterly annoyed, I turned my truck around.  Kicking dirt at the fire didn’t do much, as the dirt was compacted and dry.  Remembering that I had plenty of water in my truck, I eventually doused out the fire and headed onward into the canyon.  Not only did these careless fire makers risk a disaster, but they also cost me time.  Oh, the humanity!!!

I arrived to Holy Jim Parking lot, utterly alone.  As I strapped on my vest, I heard voices in the distance and wondered, who the heck is playing in the creek at this hour?  When I finally set out, I saw two runners coming into the lot.  I knew both by sight.  One of the men went to college with my husband, the other I’ve seen running all over the mountains.  Though we are more acquaintances than anything else, I can tell you, it was sure nice to see to familiar faces in a desolate canyon at this hour.  We chatted for a short bit and headed off in opposite directions.
 

I took off up Holy Jim trail, a relentless five-mile uphill switchback to The Main Divide (a truck trail that meanders back and forth behind and front of the mountain with Orange and Riverside County Views).

I have NEVER noticed this sign before (go figure):
More Holy Jim, switchback after switchback, through forest and desert-like terrain:
Looks like the spirit of Caballo Blanco making his way through this canyon (notice the horse head shape of the clouds):

The scenery was so beautiful this morning, I wasted much time taking photos.  I also took some extra time working on form – that is keeping my head and shoulders even with my hips while making my way up hill.  This form felt awkward for some time.  I felt like I was in a marching band, and also like my rear end was sticking out.  But when I checked, I found my column straight.  Odd.
 

I did not see one person travelling up or down Holy Jim.  This of course was perfectly fine with me.  When I’m working on form, I don’t really appreciate company of strangers because I don’t want competition to take over.  The mountains were desolate on this wonderful morning.  Peaceful and serene.  After the parking lot, I didn’t speak a single word.

The final stretch of Holy Jim:

I made it to the top of Holy Jim (Bear Springs) ten minutes slower than my slow time.  Great relief set in as I made my way along The Main Divide.  My ankle cause minor pain, nothing terrible.  But still it worried me.  I took two ibuprofen (Yes, I know that is a no-no).  Overall the Main Divide was unspeakably beautiful.  I could not help but stop to take a few pictures.  I was after all running ABOVE the clouds.  I can’t think of anything that compares to running above the clouds.  It’s a surreal experience running up and down, up and down those rolling hills for several miles.  The mere perfection of this beauty is simply mind-boggling.
   

At last I made it to the infamous West Horsethief.  What a relief!  I tried, and I tried oh so hard to become one with the land travelling down this difficult trail.  I loosened up; I kicked out the back.  And I did pretty dang good for a while.  Then when the fist-sized boulders set in, I began slipping and sliding.  Perhaps I should have slowed my pace.  But my goal was to keep my pace up down West Horsethief.  During races, I lose time going down this trail.  And I hate to lose time running down hill.  Perhaps I didn’t concentrate or focus hard enough.  I’m not sure.  But after several slips and slides, I finally fell.  Fortunately, I fell on my ass, which has lots of cushion.  After impact, I came down on my right wrist, which caused only minimal pain at first, and then it was over.  Even after the fall, I continued to slip and slide down West Horsethief – big bummer, but what a gigantic adventure! 

Despite this approximate 15 mile difficult terrain, I made it back to the truck with energy to spare.  Unfortunately, I’ve been icing my ankle off and on all night. 

Here’s to a quick healing --  here! here!!

Ready to descend on West Horsethief:

Brutal!

I knew the third consecutive run of “Hard” week would be difficult.  I didn’t think the run would be brutal.  Ten miles, that’s all the plan said.  But I decided to run my ten miles on a Holy Jim Out-And-Back.  That’s a five mile trail in The Saddleback Mountains that ends at The Main Divide (Bear Springs).  It’s a tough five miles up (even down).  I’ve got it down now that I can usually run it all. 

I didn’t feel rested this morning, as I haven’t been sleeping well.  And I felt a little weak.  "Don’t care about time,” I told myself, “just do the miles.”

Slightly muggy and a little cool at the same time, about a thousand, yes ONE THOUSAND gnats decided to accompany me during the first two miles of Holy Jim.  I’m sure that I breathed in half a dozen through my nose. 

The downed tree still blocked Holy Jim just after the water falls turnoff.  That was delightful, hiking up the mountainside with a thousand gnats buzzing my face so that I could get around the tree.  I pushed it a little harder, though my pace was still slow, just to get away from those tiny bugs.

I tired easily running up that switch-back that I used to call “Holy Crap” instead of Holy Jim.  Today it felt once again like “Holy Crap.”  I felt a little light-headed and even hiked a few portions of single track.  Then I finally settled in and began enjoying the immense views.

I don’t know how this occurred, but at about 3.5 miles up, my camera flew out of my hand and off of the mountain.  You can imagine my horror as I looked down the side to see it resting lightly on a small tumbleweed-like plant.  The camera was probably about twenty feet down, so I needed to get down there.  Somehow.  I stood sideways at the edge figuring the best way to get down to my camera when the ground beneath me gave away.  I immediately fell and began sliding.  I quickly slid past my camera, unable to reach it.  I grabbed at plants on the way down to easily uproot everyone of them.  This slope was not secure!  Everything I touched went down with me. 

Many, many things go through my mind when stuff like this happen.  I knew instinctively to push my body into the mountainside.  I didn’t want to go airborne.  And I also knew instinctively to dig, dig, dig my foot into the mountain wall as I slid.  What I thought was this:  “Dang it!  It’s going to take ‘them’ forever to find me if I slide all the way to the ravine!”  I even kind of chuckled over the fine mess that I had found myself in.  My main thought, not really thought, but feeling was, “Don’t fall backward!” 

I finally dug my foot deep enough into the slope to stop my sliding.  And I began the slow process of digging in and climbing back up.  I looked for my camera on the way, didn’t see it at first.  Apparently, it slid some too in my avalanche.  Thank goodness there it was laying, as if not a care in the world, in that loosened plant, it’s lens still extended.  (Also, thank goodness I bought that extended in-case-you-throw-your-camera-off-a-mountain-and-break-it warranty). 

Climbing back up onto the trail, I found myself covered in dirt.  I had a minor cut on my left hand, a gash on right elbow (with a tiny bit of skin flapping),and welts up and down my left arm (that I didn’t notice until I got home).

Needless to say, the remaining trip to Bear Springs was excruciating!  Fatigue overwhelmed me, but eventually I made it.  I walked about on top, into the sun mainly to get away from my newly found gnat friends.  You can’t imagine how dang glad I was to have reached the top.  It was only five miles, but heck, what a brutal five miles.   I ran back so, so, so happy that I had only five miles left of mostly downhill.  And best of all, my camera still worked (for now!). 

I made decent (not good) time on the way back, especially considering my fatigue.  I even worked (ever so slightly) on my pivots around the switch-back turns.  And then of course those ONE THOUSAND gnats were back to greet me and run in the last two miles of this brutal run. 

In the Zone

I set out running up Holy Jim this morning in cold weather (in the middle of summer!).  No idea whether I ran a good pace, I merely refused to look at my garmin to inquire.  Why?  It simply didn’t matter today.  My goal: run the loop.  Just run the loop.  And enjoy. 

Holy Jim Parking Lot, bundled up on an unusually cold morning for July:

I decided this morning not to get down on my training.  Trail running is my  passion after all.  My PASSION.  Good times and bad times come with my passion.  Mostly good times.  But ever since I began my training for the hardest race (forget that, hardest physical challenge) of my life, I’ve been getting down on my physical abilities way too much.  So today, I worked, yes.  And it was DANG hard.  But I enjoyed running the trails without negative self-talk.  I relished the dark cool forest of lower Holy Jim and then switch-back after switch-back after switch-back to the Main Divide. 

I ran Holy Jim in solitude as the sun rose above the mountains. When suddenly, I came upon 6 young men and women hiking down – pre-twenties, I’d guess.  Shocked was I!  And I learned that these “kids” began their hike up to Santiago Peak at Midnight.  And then they watched the sunrise from the highest point above Orange County.  Talk about great wholesome fun!

Headed to the Main Divide (at Bear Springs):

I finally looked upon my garmin at the Main Divide.  And I admit, I was a little disappointed that I ran it about twenty minutes slower than my fastest run up Holy Jim.  (I’m okay with that – the first time I went up Holy Jim I walked most of it!)  After exploring Bear Springs a bit, I actually found a trickle of a spring in the crack of the mountain.  Then I took off along the Main Divide with time goals in mind.  I gave myself 90 minutes to get to West Horse Thief.  It’s only about five miles, but a TOUGH five miles.  I enjoyed the up and down, mostly up.  And isn’t it weird that I made it in exactly 90 minutes?

I didn’t waste much time at the West Horse Thief trailhead.  Instead, I hopped right over the railing and headed down running as quickly as possible.  My goal was to run without the fear, and not take that rocky switch-back so slowly.  I ran, and I ran fast, focusing hard on my surroundings.  And then somewhere in that, it seemed that I grew into the mountain.  I was in the zone.  In a surreal manner, I noticed everything around me at once.  I saw the smooth places to step.  I noticed the flat spot on boulders.  And I ran so quickly over the rocks they didn’t roll.  I also noticed where horses recently fell off the trail into the ravine.  (I’ve ran that trail many times since that terrible incident occurred, and never noticed the obvious location where it occurred). 

I never tripped on my way down Horse Thief today, and I kept my speed up.  Success!  When I hit Trabuco trail I increased my speed, and ran hard all the way back to the truck.  I found it mentally tiring to stay in the moment focusing so intently.  But it was great!

4th of July Holy Jim Run

It’s funny what some people consider a blessing, others consider a nuisance, and vice-versa.  People with curly hair, straighten it.  Others with straight hair, curl it.  For me, my hair grows incredibly fast.  That bugs the heck out of me because I’m have to constantly cut it.  My fingernails also grow very quickly – some girls’ dreams.  I’m not one of those girls.  I hardly ever paint my nails.  Instead, I’m continually hunting down a fingernail file to shorten them.  Point is (right now), it’s pigtails time.  I can’t get out for a hair cut, so for the first time in a while, I needed to put my hair in ponytails for this morning’s run.  Perhaps I should just grow my hair long again, then I won’t be annoyed by this.  Oh, the dilemmas in life!

Since today is the 4th of July, Independence Day in the United States, I didn’t have to work.   And since this is “easy” week, I keep my runs to ten miles and under (Oh, okay, maybe I will run a tad over ten miles).  Anyway, ten miles – the choice was easy. Holy Jim Trail.  My ultimate goal on this grind of a trail is 1 hour thirty minutes, CONSISTENTLY.  In the Twin Peaks Ultra, I will run up Holy Jim at about mile 15. 

As long as a year ago, I ran this uphill trip in a little less than two hours, 1:50 something.  Semi-recently, my best was 1:42.  Then last weekend, while aiming for 1:40, I managed to eek out 1:37 (I contribute this to the fact that I was chasing, trying to keep up with, my running friend).  Today, I thought I’d up my goal running to the top of Holy Jim, which is at the Main Divide, a place called Bear Springs, to 1:35.  (Bear Springs by the way, is the location where the last grizzly was killed in these mountains.  A little bit of history here, in the late 1800’s the bee keepers who resided in this canyon, Cussin’ Jim among them, became fed up with the bears destroying their honey bee colonies.  Thus “they” set out to kill these bears and hunted down the last grizzly at Bear Springs).

The drive to Holy Jim Parking Lot:

Finishing up the last of my coffee before hitting the porta-potties and pressing the “Start” button on my garmin.  Notice how many cars are in the lot at 7AM.  Not usual, but being a holiday, a lot of people came out to the mountains:

I set out up Holy Jim at a faster pace than usual.  Two hikers made their way behind me.  I also passed about 5 hikers making their way up, quickly into my run.  The skies were overcast at first.  But as soon as I hit the switch-backs, I began to rise above the mist.  On the switch-backs I also noticed those two hikers that I started off with  were gaining on me.  I thought, “I’M NOT GONNA LET THEM PASS ME.”  Yes, I was yelling (inside my head anyway).

Running up Holy Jim Trail:

Just when I thought I’d lost those two hikers (by the way, I think they were the fastest hikers in the world), I’d catch a glimpse of this male/female team not more than ten feet behind me.  Yikes!!!  Whenever I caught a glimpse of them (nipping at my heels!) I’d take off on a sprint stronger than I could handle (but I handled it). 

Their superb hiking abilities were really stressing me out.  I had to come up with a plan to shake them for good.  I knew that a few down hills approached when I switched ranges.  And I thought, “They’re hiking, so their pace downhill will be only slightly faster than their normal pace.  I’m running; I’m going to haul ass down those hills.”  And that is just what I did, and at every glimpse back, I could no longer see them. 

Soon after losing the hikers, I spotted a mountain biker up ahead walking his bike up the trail.  I noticed that he turned back to see me and hopped onto his bike.  Then we played the same game that I did with the hikers.  There was no way this biker was going to let a runner pass him.  And every so often on a switch-back he would glance back and see me.  That’s when I’d see him pick up his speed.  I finally caught up with the cyclist at the base of that final terrible uphill to Bear Springs.  I glanced at my watch a little disheartened because I thought I wasn’t going to make my goal.  I said, “I hate this part!”  And the cyclist replied, “Me too, and I have to push my bike up to it!”  I PLOWED up that hill, groaning outloud, “Come on Lauren!  Come on!!!”  And can you believe it????  I slapped my hand down on the trail marker and quickly looked at my garmin.  1:35.  Goal Accomplished!

I chatted with the mountain biker for a bit.  Then glanced down to see those two amazing hikers approach.  Once they made it to the top, I learned that they are training for a Mt. McKinley hike this fall. 

The hikers I credit for me making my goal:

Bear Springs:

I ran as fast as I could manage on the way down Holy Jim.  Tripping HARD three times and meeting up with dozens of hikers, I slowed at times.  The downhill trip took 1:04.  I really think there’s room for improvement there, especially after I get my pivot down on the switch-backs.  Once on a pivot, I met up with a mountain biker, and I almost ran off the trail.  He said I did it very “gracefully.”  Funny!

The trip back:

Back at home . . . how did I manage to get so dirty when I didn’t even fall? LOL.  Happy 4th for those who celebrate it!!

When the Cussin’ Ceases on Holy Jim

This morning I finally got back to the mountains (Thanks to Jeremy H. and Hank G.), specifically my favorite trail Holy Jim.  I never run the mountains alone, so I am most appreciative that I had these two friends to run with.

My history with Holy Jim Trail in the Cleveland National Forest:  I first “ran” Holy Jim during the Saddleback Marathon last November.  That race was the first time I had ever laid eyes on the trail.  I ran the beginning portions, but somewhere along the switch-back climbing, I lost all energy and had to hike.  I began leg and foot cramping toward the end, and even found myself crawling through several inches of acorns to reach the top.  I had no idea when it was going to end, so the experience was pretty much torturous.  I’m not sure, but I wouldn’t be surprised if I said one or two cuss words on Holy Jim that day.

That experience really “got my goat”.  I wasn’t going to let Holy Jim chew me up like that again.  My goal is to make it up that five mile trail as much as possible.

General History of Holy Jim Trail:  The trail is named after James T. Smith who lived in a cabin off the trail during the late 1800’s.  He was a beekeeper who also grew fig trees.  He was originally known by the name “Cussing Jim.”  Apparently, according to one source Jim was “a man given to blasphemous eloquence. When he started cussing. . . he could peel paint off a stove pipe."  Anyway, when surveyors arrived in 1870, they thought it more appropriate to name the canyon “Holy Jim” instead of “Cussing Jim.”

Today’s Adventure:  I actually started off this trail run feeling cold.  That’s a laugh, because not fifteen minutes in I ached to take off my long-sleeved shirt.  But I waited until our detour where we stopped at Holy Jim Falls.  After a quick few pictures, I peeled off that shirt and took off again behind Hank and Jeremy toward the trail.  The climb up Holy Jim was breathtakingly beautiful.  Yet, it was HOT.  Go figure. 

I ran the entire Holy Jim Trail, sure at times at a snail’s pace.  Hank lead the pack and waited patiently at the Bear Springs on the Main Divide as Jeremy and I arrived.  From there, the weather grew even hotter.  But it was bearable.  Only once did my temperature rise to 2 degrees above normal.  Mostly, despite feeling otherwise, it remained normal or at most 1 degree above. 

The big climb on Lake Elsinore’s side of the Main Divide nearly did me in.  But I kept my eyes on the prize – DOWNHILL and a cold creek at the bottom.  Jeremy ran out of water first.  Not that he came ill-prepared.  He brought along more than I.  It was just that hot out this morning along the ridge.  We drained our water quickly.  That worried me a bit, so I began to conserve my fluids as we ran that rocky switch-back down Horsethief.  I tripped SEVERAL times.  I never fell. 

Upon finally reaching the canyon, I drenched myself in the nearly ice-cold creek.  Jeremy came up and did the same.  And then I ran on in those last extremely hot and long remaining three plus miles, running out of water with about 2.5 miles remaining.  I hadn’t seen Jeremy since the creek or Hank since somewhere on Horsethief.  I knew how to get back.  But I worried that Hank, being such an excellent runner, was going to get out so far ahead he could take a wrong turn (he’s used to trails elsewhere).  And I worried about Jeremy’s lack of water for so long.  He had decided to conserve energy and was back behind me.  Apparently though, Jeremy seemed to handle lack of fluids WAY better than I do. (I think it’s the mother in me, because there was no need to worry).

I met up with Hank on Trabuco and we ran on into the lot and straight into the stream.  I wanted to lay down in it.  Instead we just drenched ourselves with that cold, cold water until Jeremy came in.  And this is how well Jeremy takes lack of water.  He didn’t even dive into the creek, he went straight to the car, got some water and chatted with mountain bikers until Hank and I finally pulled ourselves from the stream to head on home.

Great run!  Wonderful company!

Miles logged:  14.3 (23.01km) / ps.  I should note that I wore my regular New Balance Trail shoes, not the Minimus due to the length and harshness of this run.

Scenes from today’s Holy Jim (Cussin’ Jim) Run:

Prepped to go (left to right, Jeremy, Hank & Me):

Stream Crossing on Holy Jim Trail:

Holy Jim Falls (photo compliments of Jeremy):

View climbing Holy Jim:

Glorious shade on Holy Jim Trail:

Nearing top of Holy Jim:

Jeremy running Main Divide:

View toward The O.C. at Indian Truck Trail and Main Divide Junction:

(Photo compliments of Jeremy)

Ready to descend on Horsethief:

Flowers along Horsethief:

View from Horsethief:

Trabuco Canyon:

Elevation Profile: